Special Bug Pages

Showing posts with label position. Show all posts
Showing posts with label position. Show all posts

Sunday, December 14, 2014

Bug's Poker Tip #44

Position is Good For You


Playing in position is a lot like drinking water. Or eating vegetables. Or taking a daily multi-vitamin. Even if you don't know why doing so is good for you, it is in fact still good for you. Even if you don't consciously recognize that you are obtaining valuable information when in position, and that doing so in fact is helping you make better decisions, you still are obtaining that information and making better decisions. Even if you don't actively appreciate that playing in position helps you control the pot size, it still does, regardless. And even if you don't recognize that having position makes bluffing easier, it still does. Position is good for you, whether you realize it or not.

Playing in position helps a body stack grow, so eat those vegetables!

All-in for now...
-Bug

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Bug's Poker Tip #43

Look For a Reason To Fold Out of Position
(and Look For a Reason to Play In Position)


When deciding whether to play a hand preflop or not, one of the key things you should consider is whether you'll be out of position (OOP) or in position (IP) after the flop is dealt.  Said simply, you should strive to play very few hands OOP. There really is no excuse to play marginal hands when you'll be the first to act postflop. When in doubt in EP or in the blinds, just fold. Your bankroll will thank you.

But just as importantly, you should try to play a lot of hands IP. Probably more than you think you should, in fact. Position is a big deal, and it offsets a significant amount of pot inequity. As Dave Tuchman said on a recent Bart Hanson podcast: "I'm always looking for a reason to fold out of position. But I'm also looking for any excuse to play in position."

Poker is a game of maximizing the effect of small edges, and getting to act after your opponent does affords you a very significant edge over said opponent. Don't fight an uphill battle when you don't have to. Just fold OOP... and try to play IP.

In other words, spend time looking for those reasons....

All-in for now...
-Bug

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Preflop Starting Hand Selection - Part 2

[This is the second installment in a multi-part series on starting hand selection for the beginning level-1 player. Click here if you want to start back at the beginning...]

Open Raising: the Position Factor

In the first installment of this miniseries, I implied that for most micro- and low-stakes games, you can do quite well with your preflop hand selection if you simply follow a rote-type starting hand selection method that was based on four primary factors: 1) position; 2) upstream villain action; 3) effective stack sizes; and, 4) your two hole cards.  Since then, I've given this quite a bit more thought (primarily due to working on the ABC training app that Le Monsieur and I are developing). What I have now is a slight variation of my original statement; namely that the starting hand factors you should consider when playing solid level-1 poker are (in order): 1) Your Position; 2) Any Upstream Villain Action; 3) Any Downstream Villain Reactions; and 4) Misc. Adjusters, such as effective stack sizes, number of opponents, and the like.

I've built my starting hand selection chart by following this basic framework. In other words, I've created an opening chart that factors in only pure position; i.e., the situation where the action at the table folds to you, and you have to decide whether you should open (raise) or fold. Once we have that basic framework in mind, we can modify and tweak it based on the subsequent factors like upstream villain action, what the downstream villains then do, etc... Further, as we progress from the low-stakes games into tougher mid-stakes games, and we have to start learning and employing hand reading into our decisions (e.g,. level-2 REDi), we can further modify our starting hand selection based on villain types and tendencies, tells, and specific reads of both the upstream and downstream action. And then, as we move into even higher stakes and tough games, and therefore have to play a level-3 "what does villain think I have" approach to the game, we can dynamically adjust our starting hand selection choices in real time based on things like our own table image, the range our opponents are putting us on, meta game inputs, and factors like leveling, balancing, and frequencies.

But for now, we're starting very simply: we're at a generic table, the action has folded to us preflop and we have to decide whether to open our hand for a raise, or fold it. We'll assume an average 10-handed, low-stakes game, with 100bb effective stacks, and standard/generic villains. The primary level-1 factor in this decision is position.

But what does this mean? We've all read ad nauseam how important position is relative to the button (including herein this blog). The reasons include information, pot control, easier bluffing, etc. I won't rehash those things in depth now, but these factors are important not only postflop, but preflop as well. In other words, before the flop, position gives you more information on the actions of your opponents before you have to decide whether to enter the pot or not. Position also affords you the ability to add money to the pot or just call behind if you decide you want to play your hand. And position preflop is a key factor in your ability to steal the blinds, which is essentially a form of bluffing.

The general rule is this: you should play more hands in later position, and fewer in early position. But how many? The short glib answer is more than you think in later position, and fewer than you probably are in early. The longer answer is, well longer. Again, I won't go into too may details here, but it turns out you can calculate a) the probability that one or more of the remaining players left to act has a stronger hand than yours; and b) the expected value of any given starting hand against those remaining ranges on random flops. You can also factor in whether you'll have position on the villains after the flop, plus adjust for your ability to play post flop poker (e.g., read board texture; float bad players when in position and you miss the flop; get off second best hands when facing action; etc.).

Don't worry; I'm not going to make you do any of those things; I've already done the hard calculations. I also sanity checked my results against thinks like Sklansky's Tiers and Chen's starting formula. Finally, students of mine like e-Pal are crushing the online game using these charts.

So let's cut to the chase. Assuming you're a halfway decent postflop player, and can reasonably read board text post flop as well as your opponents' actions, here's my recommended conservative starting hand chart if/when the action folds to you preflop at a 100bb effective stack, low-stakes 10-handed Texas Holdem table (click to enlarge). (Note that it does include hands that you should limp or cold-call behind) (Note also that you should essentially never open-limp any of these hands; either raise or fold preflop is a very good general rule):


This is fairly conservative, especially in EP. But it keeps you out of trouble in EP, too. I play somewhat looser than this, but my style is a higher variance (but higher profit) LAggy approach, and frankly I'm a pretty good postflop level-2 and -3 hand reader. For new level-1 students to the game, however, the chart above is where I recommend starting.

In the next installment, I'll make adjustments to the chart to factor in upstream villain action. Stay tuned...

All-in for now...
-Bug







Saturday, February 8, 2014

The Secret is: Value. And Position. And...


I recently made the decision to cash out a big chunk of my poker bankroll to help pay for a new vehicle I purchased this week. I still have enough left in the offline 'roll to pay for a WSOP trip this summer, but my left pocket money is considerably lighter than it was last week. My online 'roll is also a tad on the meager side, again primarily because I've cashed out regularly every other month (which is because I fear Uncle Sam confiscating another chunk of my money like they did back on Black Friday... grrrr.)

Anyway, this is a long-winded way of saying I'm being forced to practice good BRM as I rebuild the 'roll, which means I'm back down playing at the baby stakes again. Primarily $25NL and below. Now, the players at these micro-stakes aren't bad (hell, basically everyone is better online these days), but they're nowhere near as savvy or tough as the sharks found swimming at the $100NLand $200NL tables. In other words, a slight change in tactics is required to maximize my long-term expected value down here in the micros.

What does this mean? In simple terms, it means I have to play a somewhat more mundane, straightforward style of poker to win. Playing tonight, I was reminded that there are some basics to beating these games. Here are four of the keys to crushing the micro games:
  1. Value Betting is Better than Bluffing. At the micro-stakes, bluffing should be just a small part of your game. Heck, aside from blind stealing and c-betting on dry flops, bluffing should nearly be non-existent in your game. It just ain't worth it. Value is where it's at, folks. Wait for good hands and then pound the opposition with 2/3-3/4 pot-sized bets. Make 'em call and chase... and boy will they.
  2. Position. While perhaps not as vitally important at the micro-stakes as it is at the higher stakes games, position should still be a key part of your game. I'm playing mostly 6max tables these days, and this means that in the first two seats to the left of the blinds (UTG and UTG+1) I'm basically only playing ATs+, AJo+, KQ+, and 77+. Yes, I'm tossing just about everything else. In the last two seats, however, I'm playing damn near anything that looks pretty.
  3. Isolation. Part and parcel of playing position is the tactic of iso-raising open limpers and min-raisers. Want to crush da fish? Get heads up with a guppy in position and take their money.  I played for about 60 minutes tonight, and I honestly lost count of the number of times I iso'd on the button against incredibly weak villains. I can, however, count all the money I took off them.
  4. Mind the Gap. Got ATs and there's an open raiser UTG? Throw that bad boy away. Got 33 in the BB and you're facing a LP steal? Toss it-- it just isn't worth it. Don't believe me? Google Sklansky's Gap Concept before you open your mouth to argue. 
Poker will forever remain a high variance endeavor, regardless of stakes you play, but you can make a pretty significant dent toward flattening the roller coaster--and therefore make a solid and steady profit--by playing simple ABC poker at the micros. It may not be as exciting as the rush of bluffing a good player off a better hand at $200NL, but making a solid thirty bucks an hour playing with the babies is also pretty fun. Plus my bankroll likes it. You never know when you may need to cash out and buy something big in life.

All-in for now...
-Bug

Saturday, November 16, 2013

Position = Pot Control

Repeat Question: Why is position so important?
Answer #2: Position makes it easier to control the size of the pot.

"Compounding Interest."
-Albert Einstein, reportedly when asked to name the greatest invention in human history.

In the last three posts (here, here, and here), I talked about the information advantage that position gives us at the poker table. In today's post, I'm going to shift to pot control, and how having position can dramatically affect how big or small the pot is by the time we get to the river against one or more opponents. For beginners, information is by far the most important advantage of position, but as our skills improve and we progress into intermediate and higher play, pot control is arguably just as important. In fact, I think it may even be more important.

When we have position in a hand, we get the last word from a betting point of view. Said another way, we get to close the action and/or determine whether the pot gets raised or not. This can be a huge edge, and we can use it to significantly alter how big and how fast the pot grows. To see this in action, let's imagine that we are on the button in a $1/$2 cash game with 100BB (i.e., $200) stacks. In each of the following four examples, a mid-position villain limps into the pot, we then act, the blinds fold, and the villain check-calls preflop and on each subsequent street of action.

Let's start with us having a monster hand, like Aces preflop. Villain limps in for $2, we bump it to $8, the blinds fold, and the Villain calls. Ignoring rake, the pot is now $19. The flop improves us to a monster nut hand (call it a set or quads for argument sake). Villain checks, and we bet the full size of the pot (i.e., $19). Villain calls. The pot is now $57. Turn comes a blank, Villain checks, we bet pot again, and he calls. Pot is now $171. River is another blank, and again the Villain checks. We have $116 behind, and we shove it all-in. Villain calls. Final pot size is $403.

Now let's imagine that we non-nut, but still relatively quite strong Value hand. The same action ensues, except this time we raise to $6 preflop, then bet 75% of the pot on each subsequent street. By the time we finish the river betting, the pot is $235, or just a little more than half the size of the pot in the first example.

Now let's imagine that we hold only a moderately strong hand relative to our opponents range. We call behind on the flop (i.e., don't raise), and then bet just 50% on each street of action. The final pot size is now only $56 after the river.

And finally, imagine us holding a weak hand. We call preflop, bet 50% of pot on the flop and turn, but then just check behind on the river. The final pot size is just $28. It could have been even smaller if we'd checked behind on the flop and/or turn, too.

Here's a graph that illustrates how the pot grows by street for each example:


Having position allows us to vary (control) the amount of money that goes into the pot. We can even withold money by checking behind. This is a huge advantage to have. To understand this better, imagine we have the same hands dealt to us, but our position is switched with that of the Villain; now, we're out of position in each one of these scenarios, and our opponent has the power to raise or check behind, and there is very little we can do about it.

All-in for now...
-Bug

Monday, November 11, 2013

Position = Information, Part 2

Here's basically the same hand that I showed in the previous post (here), except now we have the pair of sevens in late position, and we get to see what six of the other eight players think of their hands prior to us acting preflop:


We're not getting correct implied odds to call for set-mining when the action gets to us. Also, if we did decide to call, there is no guarantee that the UTG Villain #1 would not re-open the raising, which would cost us even more. Position gives us the information we need to make a good, safe, zero-cost fold in the hand.

No, this is not a super sexy hand example... but it's a super important concept to understand. Imagine which hands you would call here on the button given the upstream action? KJ? Nope. KQ? Nope. JJ? No, not unless we're willing to get it in if/when Villain #1 4bets. How about QQ? Tougher one, but probably a call/fold line is appropriate if the villain's are ABC. Suited connectors? No way....

...and so on....

Position gives us power to make solid decisions, and sometimes those decisions are just "Run away, run away!"  Remember, folding is exactly zero EV, and there ain't nothing wrong with that. Zero is almost always a better number than a negative one in poker...

All-in for now...
-Bug

And here's the hand history for those that can't see the video on their mobile device:
Hand Information
Game: Cash
Blind: $1/ $2
Hand History converter courtesy of pokerhandreplays.com

Table Information
Seat1:   seat 1   ($200)Small Blind
Seat2:   seat 2   ($200)Big Blind
Seat3:   villain #1   ($200)
Seat4:   seat 4   ($200)
Seat5:   seat 5   ($200)
Seat6:   seat 6   ($200)
Seat7:   seat 7   ($200)
Seat8:   seat 8   ($200)
Seat9:   seat 9   ($200)Dealer
Dealt to seat 9

Preflop (Pot:3)
villain #1   RAISE    $6
seat 4   FOLD    
seat 5   FOLD    
seat 6   RAISE    $34
seat 7   FOLD    
seat 8   FOLD    
seat 9   FOLD    
seat 1   FOLD    
seat 2   FOLD    
villain #1   ALL-IN    $194
seat 6   CALL    

Flop   (Pot: $271)


Turn   (Pot: $271)


River   (Pot: $271)


Showdown:

villain #1  SHOWS
seat 6  SHOWS
villain #1  wins the pot: $271

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Position = Information


Question: Why is position so important? 

Answer #1: Information.

The later we are to act in a hand, the more information we have about what our opponents at the table are going to do. Said simply, if they have to act first, they have to give away information about both their hand strength and their line intentions before we do. Getting to act last means we can decide what to do with our hand based on information about their hand and line.

Here's a really simple but important example of this concept in action. We are dealt a pair of sevens UTG in a full-ring game. Sevens look strong, but with eight people yet to act, we're entering the pot basically blind. Now, I'm not saying we should or shouldn't open the sevens here (it depends on a lot of other factors), but we're putting money into the pot without knowing where anyone else is in the hand yet. In this particular case, we end up shoveling in more dough than we should when we call the first re-raise... and then we still don't even get to see a flop.


Having to act first in poker sucks, mainly because we're playing without any strong indication of where we're at in the hand. Information is King at the poker table, but being OOP is akin to playing the Jester in the King's court.

All-in for now...
-Bug

And if you can't see the video due to mobile device compatibility issues:

Hand Information
Game: 
Blind: $1/ $2
Hand History converter courtesy of pokerhandreplays.com

Table Information
Seat1:   seat 1   ($200)Small Blind
Seat2:   seat 2   ($200)Big Blind
Seat3:   hero   ($200)
Seat4:   seat 4   ($200)
Seat5:   seat 5   ($200)
Seat6:   villain #1   ($200)
Seat7:   seat 7   ($200)
Seat8:   seat 8   ($200)
Seat9:   villain #2   ($200)Dealer
Dealt to hero

Preflop (Pot:3)
hero   RAISE    $6
seat 4   FOLD    
seat 5   FOLD    
villain #1   CALL    
seat 7   FOLD    
seat 8   FOLD    
villain #2   RAISE    $24
seat 1   FOLD    
seat 2   FOLD    
hero   CALL    
villain #1   RAISE    $34
villain #2   ALL-IN    $176
hero   FOLD    
villain #1   CALL    

Flop   (Pot: $307)


Turn   (Pot: $307)


River   (Pot: $307)


Showdown:

villain #1  SHOWS
villain #2  SHOWS
villain #2  wins the pot: $307

Monday, October 28, 2013

Writer's (Un)Block: Position

The biggest problem I have with my new columnist gig at Learn.PokerNews.com is deciding what to write about. No, I don’t mean I lack for ideas; au contraire mes amis. If anything, I have a glut of interesting topics and ideas. Picking and choosing where to start is actually kind of challenging, and I can honestly say I lost a little sleep in the last few days trying to figure out what might be the right place to begin.

So what did I decide for my first official article? Well, when in doubt, go back to the basics. The Learn website is focused on educating beginning and entry-level poker players, so why not start with a fundamental “beginning” concept? And right down there on the bottom rung of my Pyramid of Poker Skills is one of the most important of all concepts in poker: Position.

Yep, it’s old hat for intermediate and advanced players, but learning to play a positionally-aware game is key to learning to win. If you fail to master this, you will fail to make money at poker. Period. Yes, this is true. And, no, I’m not overstating it. Here’s a little graph I’m going to include in my article to hammer home the point:


I took this data from my last 10,000 hands of $100NL and $200NL played online: If this doesn’t convince you of the power of position, I really don’t know what would….

Anyway, I’ll let you know when the first article comes out in early November. And don’t worry; I’m going to keep posting here on the blog as usual. Turns out I have more than enough ideas for both my blog and Learn…

All-in for now…
-Bug